Wednesday, July 27, 2011

One of the most beautiful spots in Berlin is right here, around the corner from the eerie stelae of the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. It doesn't look like much, but take a closer look. The pale gravel. The splotches of grass. The oddly spaced linden trees. Underneath this plot of land lies the Führerbunker, where Hitler spent his last days on earth. As the war was ending he realized Germans weren't all he'd thought they were and so he decided that if he was going down he was going to take the German people, disappointment that they were, down with him.

He made it mandatory for all men of age to defend the cities. When they were all shot to death or hung from trees for failing to fight, he did the only other thing he could: he sacrificed the children too. Too young to wear helmet or drive tanks or even carry guns, the first regiment of children stood on this ground while Hitler handed them grenades and sent them off on their bicycles to battle the Soviet tanks.

Stories of the war often paint it black and white. Good and evil. But it wasn't so clear cut. When the Soviets entered the city they wasn't a fight to be had. Hundreds of thousands of men were hanging from trees and the women had gone into their closets for their weddings dresses or bed sheets or anything at all that was white and hung it from their balconies to indicate surrender and just like that, Berlin fell. During Soviet occupation around 80% of the women left in Berlin were raped by Soviet soldiers an average of 10-20 times each.

Today tourists can go to Checkpoint Charlie, one of the crossing points in the Berlin wall, to have their picture taken with people dressed as Soviet soldiers. How is this different than having your picture taken with some dude in Nazi gear? What's more, the idiots who dress up like this and dance around at Checkpoint Charlie are actually German porn stars. They do the Checkpoint Charlie thing by day cause they can charge tourists 5 euro to stamp their passports with a Berlin wall crossing point stamp. This stamp officially invalidates one's passport. So tourists are unknowingly paying porn stars 5 euro to render their passports useless, all while funding the grossly inappropriate behavior of these Arschlöcher.

But back to the bunker. After the war they were worried it would become some sort of shrine to Hitler so they tried blowing it up, till they remembered it was designed not to be blown up. What then could they do with it? They didn't want to build a museum, but they couldn't destroy it, so what then? Make it a car park.

It's brilliant really, and such a twist of history that the exact site of the end of World War II, the place where they entered Hitler's chambers and found him with a bullet in his forehead and a cyanide capsule in his mouth and knew the war was finally won, that this place, possibly the most important historical site in contemporary Western history, is nothing but a car park.

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