I'd had the Danish frikadeller and even cooked a batch one afternoon stuffed with Danablu. They were glorious. But Swedish köttbullar are something else entirely. Carrots, potatoes, pickled cucumbers and lingonberry jam on the side. Such rustic stuff, but exquisitely satisfying. The brunsås, or brown sauce, makes the dish. I had mine at a hotel cafe in Helsingborg by the bay, with a view across the Øresund at Helsingør/Elsinore and the castle on the coast where Hamlet used to brood.
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